Best nuts climbing reddit. 3M subscribers in the climbing community.

Best nuts climbing reddit if the rock type is suited to offsets have a set of theirs also. Comparing sizes #1 green, #2 green, #3 gold Torque Nuts are almost the same size in all setting positions within one or two mm as the #5 green, #6 red, #7 gold Rockcentrics. as every situation that you'd whip on them on a single nut would normally catch you (lead fall) with 10 kN, you then can engineer the weight and cost savings down. there's always a tipping point between cost, weight and strength. Also, off topic discussion Ugly - (removal or ban territory) it involves attacks / antagonism / hostility towards individuals or groups, downvote complaining, trolling, crusading, shaming, refutation of all science, or claims that all research / science is a conspiracy Hey folks, I have couple question regarding a home climbing wall and I'd like to know what you guys have done. A few thoughts on this and the comments. Since it sounds like you are in a metric country you may be able to find M10 socket head bolts and t-nuts cheaper then 3/8" via an industrial fastener supply. I went around with a crash pad and a camera, made friends, took photos, had loads of fun. g. I've found offsets to a significant degree but not quite as much in sandstone, basalt and quartzite also. 46M subscribers in the AskReddit community. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. Depends where you'll be climbing. 4 inch grid might be a bit much but 4-6"'s will be good. Anything with a decent percentage spandex that is stretchy. yeah that's completely safe. The video has to be an activity that the person is known for. Check out our subreddit wiki that has tons of useful info for new climbers. Most people I know have BD stoppers (admittedly that's a total of 2 trad climbers). Some find them hard to clean, but I don't really. This is a user-guided community; join the discussions, ask questions, and share your experiences. The commonly used 4-prong nuts tend to tear the wood and start spinning more easily. While hardly a day-in, day-out piece of protection for everyday trad climbing, they are considered mandatory on any big wall aid route or free climb that requires tiny protection. Jeans colors also hide ass sweat more than light brown hiking pants… I find even the stretchy jeans with high spandex too sweaty and thick though…prefer stretchy hiking pants. In this post, I’ll dive into mini reviews of three of my top picks when it comes to climbing nuts. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 9, and my climbing partner let me borrow his, and they were enjoyable to use/place. 5 and 5. The home of Climbing on reddit. It's about making friends that last a life time and even getting your butt kicked once in a while. The reason for this is that the bottom two rope sections which sit against the sides of the crack will be pushed up onto the body of the knot when fallen on, and actually become a bit wider and have more staying power. I also heard pecans are great too. My most regular climbing pants right now are The North Face Beyond the Wall pants. Holds that get pulled the other way won't spin as often because they get tightened rather than loosened when pulled. big holds that get pulled in a counter-clockwise direction. I was wondering what people who have used Ball Nuts thought of them and whether I should consider getting them in the long run. Rocks don't complain about the kind of protection you want to use. A lot of the options for cutting cost on a trad rack don't actually save you money, just delay you spending it. "Climbing's not about being the best or the hardest, or even the first. 150 votes, 28 comments. r/AskReddit is the place to ask and answer thought-provoking questions. Jan 6, 2020 · Even now, after several updates and a lot more fierce competition, they remain one of the very best nuts for the tiniest of fissures and are our Top Pick for a Micro Nut. For unknown long climbs . Personally, I started with a set of BD nuts and a yellow and orange Metolius power cam. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. I use DMM walnuts, and like them more than the stoppers when I've used my friends sets. For example, a professional tennis player pretending to be an amateur tennis player or a famous singer smurfing as an unknown singer. Anytime I'm fearful of a cam walking out of it's placement and pulling, getting stuck deeper in a crack, or opening up in a inward flaring crack, I place a hex. " Not meaning to be a dick just showing where I got my statement 🤙 but looks like I was wrong, the ripped nuts caused the unclip . A celebrity or professional pretending to be amateur usually under disguise. When t-nuts strip, you need to be able to get back there to fix them. every area is different but that one fits a large majority of climbs. They probably work best in smooth cracks. Or side to side the spacing is 6" and top to bottom the spacing is 4". Here's why I think this: Prana Zions (which now come straight legged so it's less baggy) and Brions but I also like the Bridger Jean as well. Some climbs in my area I bring them, others they stay on the ground. Two reasons. Feb 2, 2024 · By following the selection we outlined in this article, you can be sure of finding the best climbing nuts for trad climbing. lap dog named Lizzie. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango Grab a set of nuts to start and practice placement. Similar climbing wall suppliers should have them in stock. And yes we are scared of falling. Everything you know about nuts applies to them. I'm drafting up plans for a home wall and I'm trying to figure out what kind of t-nuts and bolts people use (size-wise). Set screws are pretty simple to use. Also have a few micros of offsets & stopper/rock/nuts. com Apr 14, 2025 · As someone who has spent countless hours fiddling with gear and testing gear on the rock, I’ve got a few favorites that have earned a permanent spot in my rack. Welcome to /r/slackline! Post pictures, stories, new locations, beginner guides, or anything slackline-related. if you can place a hex = elephant bomb proof! but the weight, take only what you expect to place size 3 & 6 if you have a full set of nuts. Posted by u/ManchesterMachine - 8 votes and 6 comments Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 2 votes and 22 comments I do hate ovals for racking nuts, I think ovals increase the chance of dropping them. I have checked out the gear placements on top rope (since it’s above my sport climbing highest grade) and I determined the best placements are a mixture of small cams, regular nuts, offsets, and a peenut. 7). 1. Combined with the curve going 'across' the nut rather than 'down' the nut (creating little points on the bottom corners), it's extremely easy to get the bottom edge stuck on tiny little protrusions, preventing the rest of the nut from seating well. DMM offsets are seriously rad. Generally, nuts need to be light enough that it's worth bringing 10-20 during a climb. And #4 purple Torque Nut is a little smaller than the #9 purple Rockcentrics. Oct 25, 2024 · This is because offset nuts are at their best where cams don't work at all, namely in pin scars, less parallel-sided cracks, and small flaring pots. Then go for the cams. you should be able to fix that with some heatshrink if you want though. Stretchy, draw cord closure for the leg openings to cinch Adjama Is my go to as well. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. My rack stands alone as a majority the time my partner doesn't have a rack or doesn't have small enough gear like micro nuts. offsets nuts are really nice to have Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments I have a finger crack project that takes nuts really well but cams are a pain on it since the rock is irregular with big crystals. If you go with this thought, you may miss out on what you can do with hexes and also do dangerous things with nuts. 2. Posted by u/tirename - 16 votes and 31 comments You do all the work to carry multiple pieces up a climb and then this type of stacking eats through your gear at a double time. These Alloy Offsets are tapered perfectly to fit into old pin scared pods and other similar flares where a cam or more traditionally tapered nut would be marginal at best. The best placements I found involved either placements that flare inward (which take regular nuts just fine) and placements where the nut was placed perpendicular to the wall as in |- This also did not seem reasonable. For your first set of nuts , you should buy whatever is the most popular with experienced climbers at your local crag. The overhand knots in the rope/cord ought to be well-dressed figure 8s. It's about exploration and adventure. they are just more annoying to place now that they are an open loop instead of a smaller one. I recommend the screw in t-nuts. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. r/climbing • Visited the Peak District for the first time last week. Where i normally climb (PNW) doesnt take a ton of brass at the grades i climb (mid 11s) and the bigger WC nuts are nice, but generally i just place a cam instead unless i am on basalt where they seem to slot in perfectly. Basically, not enough taper and curve down the length of the nut. it's dangerous. The Black Diamond Micro Stoppers are a popular choice, but the smallest sizes are only rated for direct aid. In my experience, contact area is even more important than strength rating, let me explain this: at 5kN strength rating you would have to have a pretty severe factor >=1 fall to break the smallest micro nuts, yet I know they would not hold a 1m fall because the pressure resulting from that small force applied in a tiny area will most likely break the constriction it sits on. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. “Shame, as it might have stopped me from the deck,” he said. Oct 19, 2021 · They’re an essential part of any climber’s trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There’s many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you’re going to buy. You can see it HERE. . Over 30+ years of climbing I have dropped 3 nuts and they were racked on ovals, sorry I am bitter. All the climbing specific trousers I've ever tried, although "baggy" are often just made from non stretch fabric (I want to say cotton but imagine their mostly man made fibres) and I have big thighs so even clothes sold as baggy are still tight on me, I'd need MC Hammer pants before I might consider trousers to be baggy. Recently I went on a trip to the gunks and figured this would be a good chance to find those 'magic pinscar placements'. It's about looking at climbing in a creative way. Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome[1]. 5. i had to look at my nuts to see what you were talking about. All of them are packed with nutrition, but which is best overall? 10 votes, 10 comments. yes that's completely fine as long as the swage is solid which it looks like it is. From the article "two offset micro nuts—ripped, and his quickdraw unclipped from the third. Worked perfect to cover plenty of placement options and get me comfortable before going full trad. They’re fine. Hexes are just big nuts. My question is, if I’ve used all my cams earlier on a climb. But at the end of the day, you still love it and you go back for more. I see numbers being thrown around and a common one being 3/8 of an inch for the t-nut size itself. Where I climb in the Sierra I rarely take my normal nuts as my offsets are that much better. Your first set of nuts should be versatile in the area you'll be climbing. I still use a set that was gifted to me when I first started. Similarly with cams, cheaper and lighter is seen as better Next of the list for least used is the brassies and the bigger WC nuts. At best, these rise to an extremely weak basis for science based discussion. WHY CLIMBING IS BETTER THAN SEX (a woman's perspective): The rock is always hard. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. 3. I use a modified D and due to the large size of the D it catches the nuts and lets you sort better. Also, there are 3-prong t-nuts that are made for softer wood, such as plywood. Double up 2-7. That being said, stacks like this were used in clean aid climbing in the 90s. It's very expensive to replace those regular nuts with offset nuts, to replace those hexes with cams, to replace those standard camalots with ultralights or totems, etc. Ultimately, the best way to truly know what the right nut set for you is to go out and try them for yourself at your local outdoor store or by sampling your friends’ gear. I have a set of DMM offsets and I am thinking the brass offset micros would be the most versitile as the offsets can be places well enough where a non-offset can be places but has the added benefit of also being places in offset situations. Just look for holds that might spin, e. 21 votes, 21 comments. 5 - 5. set of nuts. 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Agreed, it can also depend on the climb. Now of course you shouldn't go out taking whippers on pro you learned how to set by reading online articles BUT- this (and I thought this was a good article overall), was a bit lacking in making sure there's enough surface contact to make sure the placement in secure (only one line on contact, when everything else gets its own paragraph?) Good work on creating access space behind the wall. One placement kills two pieces. Black Diamond Hexcentrics are ok. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Trying to master my gear placement though. if it is, you did something else very wrong. there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Rocks are never busy watching football when you'd rather climb. Also, the intersection of, "routes where I have plenty of time to place hexes I would feel comfortable falling on" and "routes that are challenging to climb" is pretty small. Some examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How does aid climbing work?" Prior Weekly Trad Climber Thread posts Aug 8, 2022 · Julie Ellison started climbing in Alabama more than a decade ago and is now living out her dream of van life with her pup, a 60-lb. I did a couple of trad climbs in the range of 5. You can go climbing with another woman and nobody will call you names or hassle you. So i was wondering if there is a norm for the distance, and if it is being used in most(or all(?)) commercial climbing walls nowadays 🤔 I honestly hope so, because that means that i would theoretically be able to re-set a boulder from my local climbing gym, so keep projecting it indefinitely! We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. you can supplement with bigger or smaller gear if you need to. So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. For a small wall more T-Nuts is better. I wear softshell trousers. We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of everyone looking to improve their knowledge. Previously the editor of Climbing magazine, Julie thrives on creating high-quality, inspirational stories and photos for climbers of all disciplines. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. The same with those “double ended nuts” with different sizes on each end of the same cable. Nuts=Stoppers Have a full set. And I really love them nuts. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. Best I can find short notice are from climbing wall services based out of Sheffield (see link below). rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Out of all the different types of nuts out there, my all time favorite are almonds and pistachio, but I heard walnuts are the best when it comes down to overall nutrition and it’s the only one that has omega 3. Some of these climbing nuts can be as light as 4 grams but still hold 2kN. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. 5-3 C4 cam size. A crowd sourced choice will give you a nice averaged answer. 4. These aren’t quite the same, and are fo volumes, but should give you an idea what to look for. Some people use t-nuts meant to be welded in but install them using wood screws through the weld holes. 5 days ago · Micro nuts are climbing nuts that have been engineered to be extremely tiny. brvj orwt zdfeen ncrs stasczirs gxdgnjs trfce vowr wmtzh htng