Best progress capture device for simul climbing. There was no progress-capture device on the last piece.
Best progress capture device for simul climbing. It even works on frozen or muddy ropes.
Best progress capture device for simul climbing Often, the solution is to go alone, rehearsing the key pitches by solo toproping. 5 kN and a breaking strength of 4 kN. Hey fellow climbers! I'm in the midst of deciding between two lightweight progress capture devices: the Petzl Nano Traxion and the Edelrid Spoc. Taking a dynamic fall on a PCD could badly damage the sheath of the rope (a fall with a force as low as 3 kilonewtons could sever the sheath of a Nov 29, 2016 · The simul-climbing system presents extra challenges to a rescue scenario because of the progress capture devices that do not allow the followers to pull in slack above the device. 1 Seems strange that petzl recommends the tibloc for simul climbing when it seems to be one of the worst devices for that purpose. Basically it's liking climbing with mental pro. I'm looking at options for a progress capture device that I can haul multi-day pigs on big walls, haul humans out of crevasses, as one of 2 TR-solo devices, and occasionally place simul-climbing (yeah yeah, I'm gonna die doing this, but we all do it sometimes). Progress capture devices that don't use teeth can still compress the core, causing damage that's much harder to notice than a damaged sheath. For this reason, it is especially nice to have a third person on hand if any party member were to become injured. 2. As a progress capture pulley, it has a working load of 2. Features: One-way rope movement with secure locking under load. Jul 11, 2020 · Alright. I know the main drawbacks and advantages to each of these but want to hear about people who have experience with these devices in these applications or have A simul-climbing pair will insert points of climbing protection as they progress — as in normal lead climbing — but will add PCDs at some of these points to lock the rope in case one or both of them fall. Dec 3, 2024 · 1. And totally agree that simul climbing for sure can add risk. May 21, 2019 · It seems to me this could work well for both leader and follower to carry some coils and be able to adjust the length of the rope as they are climbing, but I'd love any feedback others have about the setup, especially from anyone that tried using an atc guide, reverso, mega jul or something similar for simul climbing. This will help prevent your devices from interfering with each other and reduce how far you fall. When top rope soloing, it is important to keep your two redundant progress capture devices separated. With modern Progress Capturing Pulley’s (PCP), this danger can be mitigated by adding multiples of these devices to your rack to create “inline belays”. And yes we are scared of falling. Both have been on the market for a while and have similar applications in crevasse rescue, hauling, TR ascent, and as part of a system for self-rescue. Yeah, in case of a fall it might cut the sheath of the rope, but it will prevent a possible deathly fall of the leader, if the second falls. I use it as a progress capturing device for simulclimbing in 4th and easy 5th class terrain. Professional climbers conquer more challenging routes with simul-climbing since climbing with one or more people offers no progress-capture device on the last piece. Aug 25, 2022 · The secret to our success was having the followers climb on fixed ropes with Petzl Micro Traxions (a type of progress capture device [PCD]), rather than belaying each other from above using traditional methods. Main features: the new design and the different colours of the side plates make using it even more intuitive; Oct 16, 2020 · But for a team of two, with mostly rock climbing, with a single rope, it can be a pretty sweet setup. For some people the reward of simul climbing is worth the risk. The PCD prevents the follower from giving the leader slack or lowering them without transferring the load No rope access device is suitable for rock climbing situations, they're made for static ropes with thick burly sheath, something dynamic ropes don't have. 1. Performance: Dec 7, 2016 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I have a few ideas, but don't want to stifle the discussion, so give me the best strategies you have. [63] Simil climbing is used to move quickly on long but easy multi-pitch routes, and for setting speed climbing records on big-wall A chest harness is important to hold your belay device in the correct orientation while climbing. Let's have a closer look the two suitable for alpine climbing, the Micro Traxion and relatively new Nano Traxion. [1] It contrasts with lead climbing where the leader ascends a given pitch on the route while the second climber remains in a fixed position to belay the leader in case they fall. No downward movement is otherwise possible! This is why some climbers climb with a secondary rope with a pre-rigged rappel device. Simul-climbing Nov 29, 2016 · The simul-climbing system presents extra challenges to a rescue scenario because of the progress capture devices that do not allow the followers to pull in slack above the device. If your rappel device is an Alpine Smart or Alpine Up, you can slide it up while you’re hanging from the Shunt or a Prusik (or similar) hitch tied from a sling. Overview of the Devices Petzl Rescucender. Apr 9, 2018 · There are no progress-capture devices that have been designed for simul-climbing forces. Sep 7, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Sep 27, 2018 · Theoretically, the leader is “belayed” by the follower, who climbs with a Grigri or similar device to manage slack. Specifications: Weight: 35 g Material: Stainless steel Rope Compatibility: 8mm to 11mm Certifications: CE EN 567, UIAA Petzl Tibloc Ascender Features: • Versatility: Rope ascender, progress capture device in a hauling system, or friction knot replacement during self rescue situations. The micro traxion is also a perfectly fine device for rope solo. Jan 3, 2019 · This HUGELY UPDATED article explains how to: - Use progress-capture devices to reduce fall potential - Use rope Simul Climbing can actually be safe. Jan 20, 2014 · When Tommy Caldwell or Mayan Smith-Gobat work a free climb high on El Capitan, the crux may be finding a belayer willing to put in days of duty in an isolated and exposed location. Compact and easy to handle, it has three different modes of operation: ascender, pulley or progress-capture hauling pulley. At the same Off-label use of progress-capture devices like the Petzl Micro Traxion or Tibloc, clipped to solid intermediate protection points, can mitigate the danger caused by a second’s fall, but their use is more appropriate in difficult terrain than for traditional simul-climbing ground. (Progress-capture devices even require you to escape the belay just to downclimb. So. [1] I think it's a false choice that we can either "climb quickly but with high risk by soloing" or "climb slowly but with low risk by using a rope" when we are 360 View. The first is the actual speed of climbing. However, if the follower falls, the leader gets pulled straight down onto the last piece, though using a progress-capture device like a Mini Traxion or Tibloc can mitigate this. Apr 5, 2022 · The extra friction and problem using thicker ropes makes it seem worse than the microtrax for TRS and simul climbing, although the lack of button that locks the cam open is slightly safer. Can’t do that simuling either. Concerns of sheathing a rope are definitely valid with any PCD holding a fall, perhaps that's a selling point of unicore ropes for simul climbing with PCDs? Question: How can I reduce the risk of being pulled backwards if my partner falls while we simul-climb? Answer: The correct use of an ascender/progressive capture device, like the Petzl TIBLOC, on one of the intermediate protection points can protect the leader from receiving too hard of a pull if the second were to fall. This is a good thing! It means you can use commonly carried devices as a progress capture with no friction penalty of decreased efficiency. Whether you’re an active first ascensionist or just want to do some laps after work without a partner, solo toproping is a handy Mar 6, 2019 · Edelrid have released their version of the Micro Trax called the "Spoc" progress capture pulley (for those who may be unaware). Today we’re talking about the Grigri. There was no progress-capture device on the last piece. Contemporary simul-climbers use progress capture devices (PCDs) at some of the protection points so that if the following climber falls, the PCD will lock the rope holding the falling climber and preventing the leader from being pulled off. In general, you must escape the belay in order to rappel. Oct 18, 2024 · 1 x micro traxion or similar progress capture device (to assist with simul-climbing) 1 x headlamp per climber (it can take longer than you think) Looking up at Bird Brain Boulevard, from the base of pitch one. Simul climbing is a much faster method since each climber goes up simultaneously, coordinating rope tugs and attaching and removing the belay. Dec 23, 2022 · The best way for a team to advance quickly and stay warm on big routes is to have both climbers moving at the same time. This button requires one to hold the cam open and press the button at the same time to lock-out the cam and, unlike the red levers on the Mini and Pro There is a way to simul-rappel safely which involves tying stopper knots into both ends of rope, using an autoblock backup below each climbers device, tethering each other together, and knowing without a doubt that both strands reach the next rappel station. Durable construction for high-load environments. I’m looking at the Micro Traxion, Camp USA SOB, and GriGri. Simul-climbing (or using a running-belay) is a climbing technique where a pair of climbers who are attached by a rope simultaneously ascend a multi-pitch climbing route. It is also one of the sharpest rope grabs and likely to coreshot Mar 5, 2018 · With a single the GriGri/microtraxion combo is the go-to. Aug 19, 2013 · There is a small, textured button on the edge of the device that locks out the cam which is useful for inserting or removing a rope, or for using it as a simple pulley without progress-capture. Here's a list of a few progress capture devices for hauling systems, these are mostly used for crevasse rescue but can also be useful for some rock systems t Simul-climbing is an advanced skill that can save time and increase a team's speed if done well, but which also creates obvious and not-so-obvious risks if done poorly. Don't have slack in your system, that can damage the rope with either device. ] Jan 20, 2022 · AV- I did get the impression you were placing some blame on a progress capture device. [2] [7] While PCDs can control the consequences of a fall, no manufacturer of PCDs recommends their use Sep 19, 2022 · As of today, the ideal all-in-one TRS device doesn’t exist. And let's not forget the big wall favorite, an ascender. Noteworthy specs I can find so far are: Micro Trax - 15kn (breaking strength of device, not rope) Spoc - 15kn (breaking strength of device, not rope) Micro Trax - 85 grams Spoc - 60 grams Micro Trax - 91% efficiency Dec 16, 2018 · Sure, a svelte progress capture pulley in a hauling system (such as a Petzl Micro Traxion) is great. The Petzl Rescucender is a mechanical rope grab designed for hauling systems, progress capture, and backup. Is it a solid choice for glacier travel as well or is something like the tried and true microtraxion a better option? Aug 26, 2024 · Using a Petzl Nano Traxion Progress Capture Device to belay my second on low fifth class slab terrain. Feb 3, 2019 · The real world mechanical advantage with the Grigri as a progress capture is about 1. ) Nov 9, 2021 · Stresses equipment’s integrity: Simul climbers frequently use progress capture devices (PCD), which enable climbers to take tension off a rope—such as when taking a break—without the weighted load slipping or sliding down or backward. Manufacturers do not recommend using these devices for this purpose, and some explicitly advise against it. This system doesn't work as well if you're transitioning in and out of simul climbing with some frequency, so applicability depends on the route. Sign Up or Log In Your FREE account works with all Adventure Projects sites Jan 3, 2019 · This HUGELY UPDATED article explains how to: - Use progress-capture devices to reduce fall potential - Use rope Simul Climbing can actually be safe. As Ricky said, the Revo is your best bet. I believe there are basically three foundational elements to climbing quickly and efficiently. The Spoc is a touch lighter, but the Micro Traxion grabbed the rope a little better when loading at odd angles. The inventive locking mechanism allows the rope to be inserted without removing the device from the anchor, but also cannot be opened when loaded. The GigaJule is assisted belay when he wants, standard tuber when he doesn’t, doesn’t freeze up, can be used for positioning on a fixed rope for top rope anchors, and as a progress capture device/ guide mode belay device. Easy integration into systems like the 3:1 Z-rig. VERSATILE: The cam can be locked in the open position so the device can be used as a simple pulley. Like many techniques it should be applied in the correct situation and the climbers should be aware of the risks. 5 to 1. This can be a safety concern if your device locks up mid crux, causing you to fall. It even works on frozen or muddy ropes. This encompasses a wide range of factors including physical fitness and level of comfort at the grade as well as advanced climbing techniques like simul-climbing or even short-fixing. Nov 7, 2022 · The Traxion series of progress capture pulleys, made by Petzl, are an increasingly popular piece of gear. Another danger simul-climbing presents is the necessity for the leader to create runouts while saving gear to continue beyond a rope length. This system allows the leader to haul a pack, eat, keep hydrated, and stay warm while waiting at the belay for the followers to climb Aug 14, 2024 · Progress capture device like the Petzl Micro Traxion for simul-climbing or hauling (only recommended for experienced trad climbers) Personal Items and Extras Our list above covers the major essentials for several climbing disciplines, but below we detail more helpful items and tools to bring along with you to the crag (most of these are only The guide that I was talking to the other day, he guides ice and rock, goes out with a GigaJule and a Kong Gigi placket. [Editor’s Note: When the rope runs through a progress-capture device that is clipped to protection, a simul-climbing lead climber is prevented from getting pulled downward if the follower falls. It’s so tiny and light that many climbers have one ‘just because’ the benefits of having an emergency rope grab that fits in literally any pocket vastly outweigh the less than $50 cost. Feb 12, 2012 · CONSTRUCTION: The sealed ball bearings provide excellent efficiency in a compact package. The Rescucender is a perfectly fine device for rope solo. May 15, 2023 · Off-label use of progress-capture devices like the Petzl Micro Traxion or Tibloc, clipped to solid intermediate protection points, can mitigate the danger caused by a second’s fall, but their use is more appropriate in difficult terrain than for traditional simul-climbing ground. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Here are some pros and cons based on research and personal experience, along with tips to develop simul-climbing skills. Simul Climbing Devices In addition to the equipment you would normally take on a multi-pitch, these two devices give you more options for simul climbing: - Progress capture devices (such as the RollNLock or Tibloc) - An assisted braking belay device (such as a GriGri) May 13, 2025 · Does the issue show up in other situations? Like using the roll n' lock for a simul-climbing progress capture? I'm not entirely sure to be honest, it wouldn't surprise me if it did. May 8, 2018 · Looking for some input on progress capture devices for top rope soloing that could also be useful for simul climbing. The best way to do this is with a stretchy neck lanyard. I'd suggest just using it as an emergency ascender and using a micro trax for simul stuff as its well documented. I'm just wondering to what extent, and how this can be minimized. If you’re rapping with an autoblock for a backup, it can be positioned above your harness, using a Prusik hitch (or alternative). You can make one at home with some shock cord. Dec 22, 2023 · The lightest progress capture device out there (at 35g!), the Petzl Tibloc (pronounced, TEE-BLOCK, btw) is practically in a class by itself. For over a year I have caught a few social media posts of highly certified guides belaying their clients non-traditionally with a Progress Capture Device or “PCD”. On their ropes solo page they even say that the tibloc needs to be manually pressed into the rope to work properly. ) Ultra-light multi-function device for mountaineering, rope access work, rescue and self-rescue. This HUGELY UPDATED article explains how to: - Use progress-capture devices to reduce fall potential - Use rope coils - Keep the same pace as each other Plus Aug 11, 2022 · I do quite a bit of alpine climbing with half ropes, and my partner and I often simply stow one of the ropes if there is simul climbing at the beginning and/or end of a route. We prefer to use the Avant Climbing LRS Chest Harness due to its lightweight minimalist design. In addition to the equipment you would normally take on a multi-pitch, these two devices give you more options for simul climbing: - Progress capture devices (such as the RollNLock or Tibloc) - An assisted braking belay device (such as a GriGri) Any opinions on progress capture pulleys for mountaineering? It seems like lots of climbing forums like the RollnLock pulley but most of the conversation is around solo TR. The home of Climbing on reddit. Thanks in advance. But if you don't have one, a quick link, captive eye carabiner, or belay device can help keep your prusik loop in place in a hauling system. Dec 30, 2015 · I'm specifically interested in using a Micro Trax, Kong Duck, or Ropeman to protect a 2nd falling while simul climbing. They are very lightweight so it's reasonable to take 3-4 per party which allows simul-climbing for longer distances. ) We’ll cover some of those other devices in another article. So, is simul-rappelling worth doing for the sake of expediency? Advantages and Disadvantages of Simul-Climbing Simul-Climbing Advantages: 1. On doubles a Megajul makes a passable replacement for a GriGri, but looking for thoughts on the progress capture part of the equation. In general I use simul climbing when it's easy enough to solo, but the exposure would without a doubt cause death in a fall. If you don't do this, the device will not auto-feed well. ] Climber A flipped upside down during a 30- to 40-foot fall. The only exception to this would be if you have a microtraction/progress capture pulley between the climbers and the follower fell. The CAMP Turbolock is a super-compact toothed-cam progress capture device designed for one-handed operation. Climber A was six feet above a bolt—his last piece of protection—when he was pulled off. For others it isn’t. I know that a toothed device will damage the rope in the event of a fall. Aug 4, 2020 · You can combine this with various devices clipped to your harness to capture your upward progress, such as a Grigri, a plaquette style belay device in guide mode, a progress capture pulley such as a Petzl Micro Traxion (photo below), or even another Tibloc rigged as a progress capture. May 21, 2024 · The Petzl Microtraxion and Edelrid Spoc are close contenders for our favorite progress-capture pulley. Simultaneous climbing (simul-climbing) and short-fixing are advanced techniques that can help experienced climbers when attempting in-a-day ascents on grade V and VI routes on big walls and in the high country. (Yep, I know there are some cool belay devices such as Edelrid’s Giga Jul, Mammut’s Alpine Smart, etc. xiclajnblmbgdmaeuiakpjwagatdnogfwudbecrgpazw