Three finger drag climbing. 3 to 5 reps at 5-7/10 RPE.

Three finger drag climbing Holds in real climbing are very complex, and the forces you apply on them are even more complex. Nov 9, 2022 · Front 3 drag: Good for catching holds and using pockets. Use only your index, middle and ring finger to climb (Three-Finger Drag) – No thumbs (Sloths don’t use thumbs!). Advanced climbers can also try increasing resistance to 80%. 5-10 reps. Push-up isometric at 90 degrees. Climbing on limestone is my favorite, so I figured trying to bulletproof my hands to pocket strains wasn’t a bad idea. Just a small point - I'm no expert on Duffy or his climbing style but I did just watch that video, and the most common grip position I saw him use there was the chisel grip, not a three finger drag. Subacute 7-21. Rest for 3-5 minutes between Moved Permanently. Like I said: Google it. Currently taking some time off and doing light exercises (reverse wrist curls). (2014) found significant correlations (r = 0. It took about 1-2 months to get back to no-pain. Dec 18, 2023 · You can train different grip types (half crimp, open hand, three-finger drag) but be sure to stick to one grip type for the entire six sets. I d personally prefer working on climbing mindfully (as long as you are climbing below max/ project grade) and consiously though, as that can be helpful in general (Also with breathing, shoulder, elbow and wrist positions). It can also This post could have been written by me a few years ago. Repeat, 3-5 times. The young uns are much more into open hand grips. I'm not a coach so can't really give you advice on what would improve your climbing performance but your 3 finger drag will definitely give you a better chance of staying injury free. This exercise is also known as Three Finger Drag. I'm currently suffering from a tfcc issue and notice I have been using the three finger drag significantly more on my injured side. The open grip builds strength for pockets or catching edges at full reach. Sep 19, 2022 · 0:59:23 – Three finger drag, wrist movement, and different grip positions for different rock types and routes vs. 10 seconds on: 5 seconds off. You are right that its almost impossible to 3 finger open hold most indoor tiny crimps. Sep 11, 2023 · Auch bei dynamischen Zügen in Crimps ist der Three-Finger-Drag oft die beste Wahl. Usually this is a slightly lower risk grip position to train. Front 3 half crimp: Good for big moves (pinkie doesn’t catch) and smaller width edges. That said, the three-finger drag can be a strong grip if you train it. Timestamps00:00 Start0:5 Mar 6, 2023 · The three finger drag does pose some extra risk to these weird feathery muscles in our hands called lumbricals. Double leg hip thruster (120-degree knee angle) with heels on a box. Posted a video on facebook. com Sep 12, 2024 · The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. On actual hard climbing I have a habit of dropping into a three finger drag, but generally only when I'm stressed, tired or absolutely at my limit so I've come to regard it as a sign that I'm probably about to fall off. Circuit 2 Two sets with 3 minutes of rest between. Try climbing something crimpy during every gym session to help strengthen your fingers. I don't really relate my hangboard numbers to my climbing, except in that I simply use it to rehab or improve finger strength. Another reason to train the three-finger drag is that strength in this grip is a prerequisite for impressive sloper strength. The three finger drag feels so good, my fingers feel loose and warm. I wouldn't worry about it too much or apply that high level of expectation. 5 reps at bodyweight intensity. I'm only trying to help you know where to start your journey. Had the same issue (lumbrical tear at ring finger, from climbing on MR pockets). See full list on gripped. For fourth lumbrical injuries, do a half crimp as well as a three finger drag. Right now I'm focusing on two grip types, the three fing Nov 2, 2024 · This is where I think three-finger drag hangboarding might be useful: in submaximal longer duration hangs to invoke lumbrical elongation (stretch your muscles) but also avoid the risk of injuries. boulders. I tend to drop into a three finger drag while climbing when I'm really struggling right at my limit and just about to fall off. Sep 27, 2024 · Start by picking out some crimpy climbs at the gym. Around 8:54 he shows an exercise to build three-finger drag flexion (scalable with feet on the ground) I'm curious about what others think about this. If I keep my fingers in the open crimp position (ie, PIP joint of the index finger is straight), my pinky is not long enough to reach the crimp, turning my "open crimp" into a 3-finger drag. Try to use mainly holds that aren’t jugs and aren’t positive, meaning you can’t If you really want to force open hand positions tape your fingers in a way so you cant bend them into the full crimp position. . How to do 3-Finger Drag. Advanced climbers will be able to do one or two additional sets that target the three-finger drag and the two-finger pocket grips. Have you tried this? How did it work for you?Sub to follow my climbing and fit Oct 26, 2021 · Bend the index, middle and ring fingers at 90 degrees, keep your little finger straight, and rest your thumb next to the index finger. Oft It's likely you're just weak in the 3 finger drag position because you've never trained it or you don't use it when climbing a ton (insert u/justcrimp rant here lol). Du kannst diese Technik daher recht verlässlich einsetzen und dich nach dem dynamischen Zug in einen offenen Vier-Finger-Crimp Revamp your Windows experience with an intuitive touchpad drag gesture, inspired by MacOS efficiency. The 3 finger open hand grip feels more comfortable but weaker since there is no pinky. Oft Mar 27, 2019 · Drag (aka: hang / open-hand) All climbers know the drag or open-grip to be the default for pockets, yet it is often possible and beneficial to drag on edges. Reduce the number of reps to 5 if using this high weight. Now, it's gone, I don't think about how many fingers I have on, etc. It is usually performed with three fingers, excluding the little finger. 3 finger drag form is much different than half crimp form. I heard David McLeod saying something about 3 finger drag being nice on finger joints or something (can't quite remember now), but I decided to try it. Simply take your little finger off and hook the first joints of the index, middle and ring fingers over the hold. A bit of background: BW=72kg MVC-7 half crimp= +40kg Stronger back-3 than front-3 half crimp. May 20, 2024 · By training your three-finger drag by holding onto climbing holds with this grip, you can significantly enhance your crimping power and contact strength. The document has moved here. This should last for only 2-3 seconds. When it comes to fingerboard training for climbing, there are many tools and methods at our disposal! If anyone has watched our channels over the years or fo Climbing open hand (3 finger drag): This is probably the second breakthrough I had with my synovitis and really helped me understand WHY I had it in the first place. 13 climber himself) advised me to do the following until pain subsides: a) to climb on MRP (or IMRP), i. Moving my pinky up onto the crimp seems to inevitably move me into a half crimp finger position. Since quarantine started, I have begun hangboarding for the first time in my climbing career. Using your fingers in flexion/extension opposition (tightly curling some fingers while maintaining extension in others) increases strain on the tendons (which are The index is the main differentiating finger between 4 fingers pseudo-open, and a strict half crimp, - The other fingers go where they want; Middle and Ring fingers can go above the edge/be slightly/moderating more in the direction of full crimp. This includes what I learned from months I had an experience almost identical to yours. Mono & Two-Finger Pockets Often seen as the most advanced grip position, small pockets place incredibly high loads through the pulleys and tendons of the fingers. . Pinky is the only one that can drag (depends on finger/hand anatomy). The Training Program: Half Crimp on 14-millimetre edge: 3 sets of 10 seconds on, 50 seconds off; Engage about 80% of the weight it would take to lift off the ground; Three-finger drag on large edge: 3 sets of 10 seconds on, 50 seconds off Jan 21, 2024 · Full crimp, half crimp, open grip, and front three-finger drag are the available options. I have to three-finger drag everything, crimps, slopers, jugs, you name it I drag it. But look, this is very often the case: Can crimp with all 4 fingers on no pain + three finger drag (bonus points with dropping of the pinky towards palm) causes lotta pain = (at least, but not necessarily limited to) lumbrical injury (of some kind/degree). Find a crimpy problem and do some laps on it. I've talked to a few people who are doing custom plans from Lattice Training and it seems Lattice likes to prescribe 30s density hangs for 3fd I climb in an area where all the rock is limestone, and I did find that 2/3 finger pockets felt significantly less "tweaky" after I started training 3 finger drag on the hangboard. com/episodes/yves-gravelleOr you can check out our library of 150+ interviews with the biggest names The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. What I have been trying to fix is to work on 2 finger pocket (1pad) it will force the fingers to be in a more open hand position. Beginners will want to start with open positions such as this three-finger “drag,” and minimize time on the smallest holds and limit using the “full crimp,” which increases strain on the fingers. It’s a popular grip that some climbers use for the majority of their climbing. Just want to point that out to anyone who watches that and doesn't understand there's a significant mechanical difference between a pure three Continuing middle range rep work for armlifting movements, to improve my grip strength for climbing. Don’t worry about climbing three grades below your max to do this; you must start somewhere. Unlike other crimp positions that involve a thumb lock over the index finger for added force, the three-finger drag is particularly effective at engaging the forearm flexors. Nov 10, 2022 · Vary your finger positions and hold size to reduce the chance of injury. It's like retraining your body to hold a spoon differently. Start on your knees and slowly shift weight onto your fingers. I have hangboarded 3 finger drag a bit in the past, but nothing too consistent. 4. Rest three to five minutes before doing the next set of one-handed hangs with each hand. Browse this and over 2,000 other exercises in the free Workout Trainer app for iOS and Android. After the first set of five hangs, rest for five to ten minutes, and then do a second set of five hangs. Jan 10, 2022 · Gentle rest your fingers on the hold and position them close to the form you will use (3 finger drag vs half crimp, for example). I am now completely back to normal, and now my 3-finger drag is much stronger. Pre-injury, I favored a 4 finger grip and would even have said that my 3-finger drag was a weakness. Especially strong climbers can also perform a hang or two using the three-finger drag and two-finger pocket grips. However, now when I am doing moves that require open hand grips, I almost instinctually switch to a 3 finger drag on the I've seen really drastic gains in my 3 finger drag, and I have trouble understanding them. *Disclaimer: I only train half crimp max hangs; open was my original strength for the first 3 years, followed by full crimp-- half crimp has always been my weakest position. Calibration and progression. My 3 finger drag (DIP straight/PIP flex) which doesn't seem to be the right form. Relax, allowing your fingers to gently rest on the hold again. NET When climbing boulders or doing laps on a spray wall follow these rules: Climb slow and methodically on the wall – no fast or dynamic movements. First, stop all climbing until you can use basic non-drag 4-finger and 5-finger grip positions without pain. May 10, 2022 · The open or drag grip is the default for pockets, yet it is also possible and beneficial to drag on edges, especially on slightly easier terrain in order to conserve energy. Full crimp grip and 3 finger drag were not permitted. In addition, if you are certain the only way to hold something is with a super powerful full crimp, consider making adjustments to your feet and body position to make climbing holds feel better instead of always resulting to full crimping. It didn't occur to me that there was anything different about 4 fingers drag on a hold and 3 finger open and that held my recovery back for a long time. Jan 11, 2024 · You can train different grip types (half crimp, open hand, three-finger drag) but be sure to stick to one grip type for the entire six sets. 79) between relative finger strength 4,559 likes, 177 comments - latticetraining on September 11, 2024: "THE 3 FINGER DRAG The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. Hang/open/drag. For maximum comfort and effectiveness, start with four fingers and alternate between open and half-crimp positions. Back 3 half crimp: Good for those with weaker pinky fingers. Sep 10, 2021 · Watched some videos on finger taping and I was in action again. It worked! My 3 finger drag got ALOT stronger, and I feel no tweakiness in both drag/2 finger positions. "Hey dude, what's up with the fingers?" Not sure if it's the tape or the injuries, but I can't really bend them. in general use the injured finger only with the two surrounding fingers also engaged, as this will take some load off the lumbrical muscle Mar 10, 2023 · 4-finger drag (fingers pulled back on a jug) repeater. May 1, 2024 · Open-Hand Crimp: (AKA “3-finger drag”) The open-hand crimp is used on slightly easier terrain when you want to conserve energy. I have trouble getting into open hand position. I have similar finger proportions, and when hangboarding I always try to keep all four fingers on. Having some fingers fully flexed while others are extended creates a shear force on the rather fragile lumbricals that can lead to injuries if you’re not used to this grip position. Listen to the full episode 👉 https://thenuggetclimbing. Around 14:23 he shows a mind-boggling feat of strength by hanging one-handed three-finger drag on a beastmaker 2000 middle edge and can even flex his hand under that load. Lots of regional differences. Train with both the half crimp and open crimp grips. You could have a two-finger drag, so the 3 is usually included. Jan 4, 2024 · Instead of crimping every hold, try to mix in other grip types, like the three-finger drag or half crimp. I used to hang +50 lbs open hand but could barely do bodyweight half crimp. 3 to 5 reps at 5-7/10 RPE. I can hang +15/+20 back 3 for 10 seconds. This is a good protocol for targeting harder yet shorter power endurance crux sections. It will feel weird because your body isn't used to it and your reflex will be to default to a non 3-finger drag. Learn how to do this exercise: 3-Finger Drag. For third lumbrical injuries, do a half crimp as well as a two finger pocket (index + middle or ring + pinky – whichever one feels like it stimulates the injured tissue the most). Lastly, strengthening the 3-finger drag for climbing will reduce the risk of injuries associated with the pinky finger slipping off and overloading the other fingers. The downside to the three-finger drag is that it can feel insecure, which is why many climbers prefer the half crimp. Your little finger will hang off the hold while your index, middle, and ring fingers grab the hold. I started at -20% bodyweight with 3 finger drag on the hangboard, and eventually worked up to +20% bodyweight. Often, it’s used on moves where elbows can stay below the hold (as this maximises friction), or on small holds that are too slopey to crimp. Say goodbye to the conventional "tap and drag" method and embrace the seamless three-finger drag. Sep 21, 2023 · 4. Climbing is technical, but not as rigorous as the sciences when it comes to language. I can only hang 10kg for front 3. Quickly load your fingers, generating as much force as you can. (Photo: Tom Randall) How Many Fingers and Arms? As a large-handed climber I also love the three finger drag, but the healthy way to do it is less comfortable and feels less strong so when I can get four fingers on, I do. I'm not sure if its going to work. 5 seconds on: 5 seconds off. To get used to 3 finger dragging when climbing you really have to focus on using it. Feb 11, 2021 · The progressive loading of the fingers creates a molecular response. u/artvandelay7 's Neil Gresham link shows drag being used interchangeably with open hand. This video goes over my progression and reflections of learning the three finger drag one arm hang on the 20mm edge. Apr 24, 2023 · Starting to use armlifting as a method of improving my climbing grip strength. You’ll need to take your little finger off and hook the first joints of the index, middle and ring fingers over the hold. Be very careful and listen to In that case, 3 finger drag is probably a great candidate (and then front three/back three in half crimp). e. Grip type is extremely nuanced in actual climbing, while on hangboarding it is relatively one-dimensional. Durch die offene Handhaltung reduzierst du das Verletzungsrisiko, zudem liegen die Fingerkuppen der Front 3 dichter beieinander. Nov 10, 2024 · Our generation used to crimp almost everything (climbs were less steep) but it's terrible for your finger ligaments. I have started to train the three finger drag as it is a personal weakness, and I'm starting to feel a bit stronger. Then, when I got to the point where I knew I'd need to do 3 finger drag holds, I started using the biggest campus board edge, feet on, doing 3 finger drags, and slowly lowering more and more weight onto that hand. They just feel comfortable, I don't really know how to explain it. Aug 25, 2019 · Light high rep finger curls after climbing and/or light 3 finger drag; Mobility work in hot water bath or hot tub once a day; Extensor strengthening, if it helps; Massage, if it helps; Finger tip pushup supports hold (just holding the top position) with straight fingers. 42-0. Note : the acute phase will be day 0-5-7. Should I train this 3 finger grip more until it is stronger and use this more? Is there any detriment to climbing without the pinky and neglecting it while training the 3 finger open hand grip? Thanks all! Jun 2, 2025 · First, you’ll need to perform these exercises with two different grip types. Jul 29, 2024 · In this Episode I share some thoughts about a grip position that I've been using more often during bouldering, the three finger drag. Higher risk than drag positions. Reproduced with permission of Lattice Training Ltd. Jul 26, 2021 · I recommend a max hang protocol using an edge that allows an open hand or 3-finger drag position (often about 20-30mm) with 4-6 rounds of 10 second holds. Moved Permanently. My surgeon (a 5. 1:04:29 – Summary of the takeaways from my finger testing, and Dan’s guesses about my climbing based on the numbers I'm also having this same problem at the moment. Continue for up to five or six hangs with each hand. This will help you get your body used to using only your fingertips. Three finger drag queen. There are three factors you can use to adjust the intensity level in hangboarding. Keep it slow, do a couple each climbing sesh, don't go too fast. 1:03:28 – What Dan thinks I should focus on with my finger strength for sport climbing. nyklfmos ciyku oxle rtsyqff nbke fryr ivxfk njicz oqpkf ina