Anycubic silk pla settings reddit 5 PLA #FFCC80 Hatchbox Matte Orange TD 3 PLA #F9EC78 Overture Matte Yellow TD 3. Especially head, speed and flow rate. The environmental circumstances are different, room temp, printer model, hotend type, nozzle type. It prints perfect every time on m Anycubic Kobra. I am currently printing with this filament on a AnyCubic Kobra 2 . Retraction is enabled but this happens regardless of the retraction speed. I only use Geeetech PLA and Silk PLA. Silk has a tendency to grind in my extruder if my retraction is too aggressive, and it "swells" sort of after extrusion. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. I've never had issues with Hatchbox, Overture, Mika3D, Bambu Labs, or Creality PLA, including wood PLA, silk, glow in the dark, and CF. 3mm. I used a 2 layer flow cube with forced 0. These are based on a Wham Bam PEX build plate and the brass nozzle and heater block that comes with the BIQU H2 direct drive mounted on a modified Ender 5 Plus: Brand: Clas Ohlson Universal PLA: Hot end: 205c. Transmission distance plays critical role, especially for the bright colours. 1mm layer height. The retraction settings are also based on my Klipper pressure advance settings at 0. Printer also sounds like it will shake itself to pieces :) How to solve this: Increase ironing temperature to allow the PLA to melt better and allow a smoother passage of the print head and a smoother bow wave. 6 Fakespot Reviews Grade: A Adjusted Fakespot Rating: 4. I always print in sunlu PLA+ and petg, loving it! The best speed is standard, but it can also handle sport and ludoucris mode just fine! Explore Anycubic's 1. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Anything to do with Anycubic 3d printers. Looks like silk PLA. I have been 3d printing for 2 years now off and on still consider myself a novice hobbyist far from pro and just realized today that I haven't been using my cooling fan at all lol I thought the fan on the front was the cooling fan but I guess not cuz I looked and realized the fan on the side never spins while I'm printing cuz I never set a percent there for my profile and I've always wondered I have lots of PLA in normal, Plus and Meta flavor. However I am not that simple, and feel the need to over explain things. 6 Analysis Performed at: 11-29-2022 May 5, 2023 · Below are the specific product parameters and recommended print settings for Anycubic Silk PLA filament. Usually silk filament needs higher temperatures, 10C - 15C higher than normal PLA - both to get the shiny silk effect and any reasonable layer adhesion. Duramic quickly became my favorite PETG because it seems to be more flexible and durable than others I've bought, and it is the least stringy I've used. In my experience "silk" or "shiny" or whatever else you market it as is only good for decorative/display prints. 25mm for example till you have no more stringing. And all of them have done quite well. 031 My filament is stored in a sunlu s1 filament drier with a relative humidity of 22% at 45c. I tried Dual color/rainbow/silk PLA with the same settings. Slicer settings are below: Print Settings: Layer height: 0. PLA #F52B1F Overture Red TD 2. It needs a higher temp and slower speed to print properly. I always print in sunlu PLA+ and petg, loving it! The best speed is standard, but it can also handle sport and ludoucris mode just fine! Looks like silk PLA. Had same issue with another brand as well. Got my first spool of light brown Overture PLA and it feels much easier to bend than the other ones I've got from Anycubic and Basicfil (maybe because it's matte?). It will also print most brands you don't need to use Bambu filament especially since you can't buy the stuff right now. The spool super-hyper-dyper Filament remain vacuumed This one is printed with regular PLA in about 29 Minutes So every time I use the dual color PLA silk from Bambu themselves in my a1, it ends up clogging my hotend. I don’t have to change it throughout the print, just keep it there the entire time. Very similar to regular pla but it has the smell of burning plastic like ABS. 5 PLA #41CB87 DO3D Silk Green TD 2. Cant figure out why. ) in the answer would be helpful as well. It can be painted light over dark and dark over light, it dries quickly, it remains water soluble after dry, and requires no solvents to clean up. com Silk PLA is a type of 3D printing material made by adding special additives to PLA base material. Name: ANYCUBIC Silk PLA Filament 1. For Matte PLA I tried Polymaker Polyterra which is nice but also not nearly as strong as anycubic’s pla. I have clean and checked if my nozzle was clogged but it’s clean. Oh I bet copper one is awesome. I'm using the 0. Printing the tower will change settings for you automatically so you need things normalized. Bed: 52c. Posted by u/J3d1kn1ght1997 - 5 votes and 14 comments I'm on an Anycubic Kobra Neo with a 0. It has temperature between 200-230°C. It contains TPU to give it the silk sheen, which needs significantly higher temperatures. 5 PLA #25874C Overture Green TD 4. 8mm walls. in general, gold silk pla just doesn’t seem to play nice. I wasn’t totally satisfied with my Anycubic PLA I got off of Amazon so I got some Sunlu PLA also from Amazon- now that it’s here I realize they’re both the same brand 😅 Silk PLA and tuning. Ultimately I bought a Prusa i3 MK3S. I switched the inital layer speed to 30mm/s for the first layer and to 50mm/s for contours, infill to 60mm/s, massive infills to 30mm/s. With Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro , you can achieve the best printing effect. Help with Anycubic Silk PLA+ Silver on Kobra Neo Hi all, been enjoying getting into 3D printing thanks to Amazon vouchers at Xmas :) I bought 2x rolls of PLA with the machine 1 being an eSUN blue gerneric & the other as above in the title. Nozzle (Print) Temperature – 215 to 235 degrees Celsius Copper colored silk PLA. Any tips on the transition? Get to the end of my PLA and waste it on something small and then feed in ABS with a new job with different settings? I’m using Simplify3D. Sunlu pla+ settings First time ever using Sunlu PLA+ and I am not getting good quality even though a ton of people are suggesting it. For PETG I’ve used Eryone, getting the Kobra to print PETG well for me was a challenge but worth sticking with it to get it to work. PLA Pro, Silk PLA, and Matte PLA in my A1 without issue. The material settings should be somewhat the same as bambu lab PLA Basic. Below are my current settings based on the test I’ve currently ran. Thanks in I use the standard anycubic grey pla. Other than that they all seem to perform about the same once you tune your settings Hello people! I need help with printing PETG(Brand : Creality). Hey everyone, I am just curious as to what temperature people are printing their Sunlu PLA Plus with. r/krita is for sharing artworks made in Krita, general help, tips and tricks, troubleshooting etc. See full list on 3dprintbeast. It’s also less consistent which seems to cause layer adhesion issues. This is with mostly stock settings creality print slicer. Both silk filaments needed a 2% increase in extrusion multiplier settings, not printing much silk I'll just guess this is normal. 4mm hardened steel nozzle and I've tried temp ranges 195-235, bed ranges 55-65, retraction speeds 30mm/s, 40, 60, lowering flow to 80 and no matter what I'm getting burnt blobs during the print, I've tried emailing Amolen to see if they have recommended settings (what i listed I'd print a temp calibration from 200 - 220 and if 200 is optimal repeat at 190 - 205. Mate colours usually offer smaller transmission distance and they are useful in some cases. That battery dispenser you made looks super good. Save others from having to download everything especially if you don't have a BL printer and just want to test the scarf settings without having to download the whole box and dice. I found this with some Eryone Silk Gold - the extruder with stock spring squashed the filament out of round, and where there were a lot of retractions, it became sufficiently deformed that it got stuck in 127K subscribers in the FixMyPrint community. Lately I have been getting the same issue with several rolls of filament, where the start of each layer would under extrude. The one I have isn't from sunlu, but has a 30% content of real wood or smth. Retraction: 0. I tried with other regular PLA filaments and they didn’t clog but every time I use the silk it clogs. The community of r/FixMyPrint will help you fix your 3D printer settings for the most optimal prints. Can’t print silk on standard PLA settings. 4mm walls to measure out 0. 6 nozzle and reducing the temperature. I have several other Inland filaments "tuned" from variants such as Tough, Standard PLA, PLA Pro and Silk PLA. Plus the spool Hyper which came with the device. Using Bambu Studio Settle in for a long drawn out wall of text that could be summed up as "how the hell do I know what settings to use, and when to use them". 2mm First layer height: 0. My problem Is that all of my prints layer shift and I already tried the things suggested on the Anycubic Website. For the final piece (chess board), the matte side will be what is face up and visible. I even converted my Kobra Plus to direct drive, rebuilt the hot end with an all metal heat break, ran calibration after calibration, tried multiple Cura profiles that other users created and ultimately, the printer just sucks, has shitty firmware, and is inconsistent and currently my case looks like frankensteins monster cobbled together from different scraps - currently i'm printing the final pieces from a matte PLA and this is challenging because the bed adhesion for this material is horrible and the further you get up, the worse it gets - so i resorted to adding tree supports all over the place and the fuzzy solves the rest, the pieces look quite nice now Does anyone have any parameter suggestions to get good clean prints on anycubic Kobra 2 Neo? Like print speed, retraction, etc? Anycubic slicer doing fine but i feel the default Settings is messing with the quality print at 150 m/ms. If you get stringing on the test, increase your retraction in small increments like 0. I leave the door open for PLA, closed for everything else. 4mm nozzle, using PrusaSlicer 2. Other settings are pretty much the same as for ordinary PLA. I have the Kobra 2 and it’s been working fine for like a month now and this morning but I just came back home and started printing things but realized my nozzle was dirty and just full of melted filament that was getting stuck when printing so I stopped the print to clean it. I have the ESUN filament dryer and I was wondering what duration / temp people are using for PLA I live in Arizona so very low humidity, but obviously it still needs drying so I’ve personally been using setting 1 (40°c) for 5 hours but haven’t been getting much results So it seems the ideal Scarf settings are as follows (pulled direct from the project file) and I tested these and can confirm the results are really good. Hi everyone, I'm printing an object with a large top surface, and I just realized that it takes 3 hours for ironing in an 8-hour print. I did increase the walls to 4 and top walls (skin) to 4 too. I got some good results with a 0. Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Hey pla+ and pla silk user here! Nozzle temp of 235! Bed at 60. I’d like to see if there are some common settings people are using. Do I need a bigger hotend? I have a 0. I just want to know what the maximum speed is for ironing while still achieving great results. I have printed with PLA, PLA+, Silk PLA, PETG and ABS so far. I've had one bad roll of esun pla+ that was so waterlogged it caused condensation in my filament dryer. 7. 2mm standard profile. 05 mm Company: Visit the ANYCUBIC Store Amazon Product Rating: 4. So after slicing models with my Ender 3 V 3(You know, the ones that are supposed to do everything for you as far as cal goes) when laying down a first layer it almost looks as though the nozzel is too close causing ugly blobs and such. It has a soft and smooth texture similar to silk fabric, hence the name "Silk PLA". I should clarify when using hyper pla the results are perfect so it's definitely something to do with the silk. So what are your pros and cons with PolyTerra PLA Filament. How can I get that matte side to be shiny like the underside? Any chance you can share your settings? Having issues printing SUNLU PLA with my Qidi X Max 3. As most people using this filament seem to have no issues with standard PLA settings and just lowering temps, there isn't much info around. I ordered silver, gold, and blue yesterday in the shiny silk pla and am super excited to see how those prints come out. I just adjust the temperature (and bump the temp up by 10C when printing faster). Hello all. 5 PLA #F2B2CA Overture Matte Pink TD 3 PLA ##F2061D Overture Silk Red TD 3 PLA ##AA361F Paramount Volcano Orange Red TD 3 PLA #F8B557 Overture Matte Orange TD 2. Compared to traditional PLA, Silk PLA has stronger interlayer adhesion, resulting in a smoother and more delicate surface of the printed model and a more obvious Anyway, Printing Silk, I had very good success with 200 Degrees, bed temp of 45 to 50 (sometimes 65 for first layer for adhesion) on Qidi and Bambu Labs printers. Using default PLA/PLA silk settings. I can print it without issue using standard PLA settings, although a hotter nozzle seems to yield a shinier surface, but the layer adhesion always comes out very fragile. I ended up printing with 0. PLA+/Tough PLA/, Glow-in-the-dark PLA, Silk PLA, Glitter, Lightweight, Wood-filled, and Metal-filled are all varieties of this versatile material. Bambu's PLA is just eSun's PLA - don't think it's anything special, it's a good filament but it's not specifically designed for Bambu printers or anything like that. I was wondering what yall are running for PLA Silk. It's a not uncommon problem. 230c, 300mm/s speed, 0. Using a new roll of Comgrow silk pla, with generic silk pla and 0. I am currently printing at 210 degrees with fairly good results but am curious what others may be using (Might work better). Not sure if I did something wrong or if it is just machine variables, but for my 2 "tuned" PLA+ colors from Inland, i have the following. Again, start with a blank project, the only settings you want to carry over is your new filament profile. Bambu lab pla basic series offers good transmission distance and also most of overture pla. It may be trickier to print. Explore Anycubic's 1. The wood pla was flowing a lot more than normal pla. Elegoo red pla. If you need a large-format fast 3D printer, choose Anycubic Kobra 2 Max and Plus with silk filament for beautiful prints, and a smooth and efficient printing experience. Many silk PLA filaments are particularly soft, and get deformed by the pressure from the extruder arm. 2Lbs)/Spool, Dimensional Accuracy /- 0. Elevate your 3D printing with this premium silk filament, available in different amounts to suit your project needs. Really double check the filament mabufacturers recommended settings to yours. 041s. 75mm, Silver Silk 3D Printer PLA Filament, 1kg(2. Usually everything just works. This is not a good place to simply share cool photos/videos or promote your own work and projects, but rather a place to discuss photography as an art and post things that would be of interest to other photographers. If you want ultra fine detail, I would slow it down a little, the same as you would with standard PLA. 28mm Perimeters: 3 Solid Layers: Top 4, Bottom 3 Infill : 10% Gyroid Fill angle: 45 degrees Solid infill threshold area: 70mm Here’s the gcode for a PLA temp tower I did and here’s a stringing test you can slice after you have the right temp from the tower. This improved the quality and consistency of my prints. Like tightening the Belts, vibration compensation, changing parameters, … I haven’t found that many helpful videos on how to to fix this issue, so any help is appreciated. If you use the official filament of Anycubic, use the configuration file directly. With Silk PLA I bumped the temps to 60/230C and again, zero issues. Polyterra Marble Matte PLA and Polylite PETG I tested the marble matte PLA last night and I noticed it either warps or the bed adhesion fails and the print gets dragged around, I did manage to complete a benchy though but after that, the next prints are pretty unstable with bed adhesion. When you get your A1, download Orca Slicer - it has a bunch of calibration stuff you can use to fine tune specific filaments for speed and quality. Or even as low as 40mm/s outer wall speed for maximum shininess of silk filament I used PLA, HS-PLA, Matte PLA with stock settings, full speed and no issues at 50C bed and 220 nozzle. I have done temp towers with this PLA and have found between 215 and 220 it performs the best (says 205-230 on box). Geeetech is the bomb for me. Jan 19, 2023 · Moving forward, we will dive deeper into the process of configuring print settings for silk PLA, find out how to create specific configurations for silk PLA in popular slicers such as Cura and PrusaSlicer, and finally, take a quick look at the optimal silk PLA settings for the Ender 3. So far i did not have any issues using the existing PLA with high speed. In my case it was mostly fibers peeling off and building up at joints in the tubing causing random filament clogs. 24K subscribers in the anycubic community. 6 at 190°C with great results Overture and polymaker and esun have been very good in my experience. I have a roll of TPU that I am hesitant on trying. 0 and Anycubic Silk PLA. My x1c handles these prints really nice and I just have them set to generic silk pla for settings and it comes out so clean. I had to play around with the settings a lot, and it was a balance between amount of PLA, structural stability, and sticking to the plate. Bed temp at 60 has kept away all curling and warping off the bed. Edit - you specifically mention Overture, I've printed both their regular PLA and the dregs of a spool of their matte PLA without issue at 300mm/s. May 26, 2024 · PLA is a popular 3D printing filament, and you might have come across multiple kinds of PLA already. I have a Question about using Sunlu PLA PLUS on the Bambu X1C and AMS. Those things didn't work for me, just gave me terrible underextrusion, layers curling at edges, woeful layer adhesion and prints getting dislodged from the plate was just a few of the issues. Only been printing for a year or two now and only now experiencing this issue. I use the Anycubic Silk-PLA and the normal PLA. Bambulabs A1. I'm using Anycubic Silk, and I was just double checking to see if anyone has had decent success… Hey complete beginner here, i just got the adventurer 5m (not pro) And the orcaslicer version that allows for wifi printing, i’m using anycubic pla plus and am experiencing stringing and layer spacing issues Anyone know of optimal settings i can use to fix these? Having a weird issue with my Anycubic Vyper and Kobra Max that's causing my silk PLA to twist and clog in the hotend. Tree supports didn't work well for me (ended up barfing several times late in the printing) and I would have added more layers at the top if I was doing it all over again. As you can see in the pic the details have been smudged out or maybe my temperature settings are off( extruder :235 , bed:75). 75mm Silk PLA Filament Package offering various quantity options. . 0 Pressure advance: 0. I printed to some silk pla on my first go and it came out with only minor imperfections, I have dialed in the settings for the silk after numerous prints since then. But both prints do have little holes in them from under extrusion. On the downwards resonation, it collects too much PLA in the bow wave, which it then deposits on the next upward swing. Most of the pla+ I've used (inland) prints at same settings as normal pla. 8 if need be but I would like to ask you experts first Including PLA color/make (+, Pro, Silk, etc. When I switch to normal pla or a different brand these settings will likely have to be adjusted, which I'll save for that filaments profile. I have yet to find a PLA brand that won't print at that speed. I have increased and decreased temp, increased flow, reduced and increased speed and this is what I am getting. Each filament prints differently on everyone's printer. It's definitely tougher than regular pla but it also prints with same settings. I have silk PLA that I run through the AMS. The first layer looks very matte finish (right square), while the under layers are nice and shiny. The pyramid is as as good as the one printed with Polylite PLA Pro, not bad for a silk filament at all! Sunlu silver silk PLA prints very well, although Sunlu regular plain PLA has sometimes been second tier stuff. I have it in an enclosure. 5 Planning on switching out after I run out of Anycubic PLA on my Chiron. (Thanks AuDHD!) I needed a good reliable but reasonably priced black PLA for a large print job that used up the whole spool, I got Anycubic. I have printed PETG, PLA, PLA+. It also will swell up once leaving the nozzle so be aware of warping and over extrusion. Generally speaking, the seller of the filament will marked the information on the product details page and the outer packaging. It also prints quite well on horizontal surfaces (very smooth and everything), but it strings a whole lot more. Looking on the webpage, it gives the following, but I still have 1st layer defects. While that is in there ive got another elgoo yellow pla spool in a food dehydrator at 45c with a room dehydrator that uses silica beads so i can rule out wet filament. PLA is the base plastic of all of these filaments. Unofficial, not affiliated with Anycubic. Shop 3D printers & filaments at Anycubic! Find the desktop 3d printer for your needs & explore a wide range of PLA, ABS, resin & more. I might add that I have the printer in a 2' cubed enclosure that I built 2 years ago for my Mega Zero. Some folks who frequent this forum have a massive amount of build hours and experience and I'd love to see your work. I have a Kobra Plus that I tweaked and tweaked and tweaked and tweaked. You might need to adjust retraction settings slightly if there's an increased tendency to oozing due to the raised temperature, but I usually don't. Try using 20C higher (or upto your filament's max rated temp), and a lot slower, like 30-60 mm/s. Reply I recently bought a Kobra 2 Max from Anycubic and have been testing out PLA and High Speed PLA(PLA-HS). I needed plain red in the form of a refill coil to test my reusable spool design, I got Lee Fung PLA+ (I actually have 4 spools of different color Lee Fung: blue, silk orange, silk green, and red). It is much less strong and has poorer layer adhesion than regular PLA or PLA+, which I print at 200C. ¶ Hot Bed Temperature. I got Amolen's multicolor GITD PLA filament and for the life of me I can't get a clean print out. The heat melts it in to adhere better to the bed AND the layers. Pla, pla+, petg and thw overture nylon have been great. Currently best I can seem to get is: Bed: 60 First layer: 220 Other layers: 225 Extrusion multiplier: 1. On the right in gray is Anycubic brand PLA, on the left is a new roll of Sunlu brand PLA. Hot Bed (also known as build platform or heated bed) temperature during the printing process is crucial. It’s the damnedest thing and I can’t find even find another post with a similar issue. I’m experiencing bridging issues along with excessive stringing. Any pictures of a build with those materials would be awesome to see. A couple of them needed higher temps (230 rather than 220), but that's it. I feel like I got the PLA down but I’m having issues getting the PLA-HS down. Reduce the spring tension on the extruder arm. Gouache is an opaque, water-based paint similar to watercolor, with which it is sometimes paired. I used a roll of silk gold pla from a brand called “reprapper ” a while back and had similar issues in my ams. Krita - Free and open source digital painting application for Illustrators, comic artists, concept artists , matte painters etc. 205, 60 for the nozzle and bed temp. Hello, I've been printing on and off for a few months, with an i3 Mega S, so what I guess is a decent but entry-level PLA printer. I cannot print with the bed heated. I've got good prints with silk, but be aware that it might take some time changing settings to get it running reliably. So I had my Z offset at -1:24mm which is the same as what I used for PLA. Only now running into this issue, any other ideas than just turning up the temps? I feel this. I use regular materials (not too cheap, not too expensive) and so far everything went good. it is printing beautifully, and is approximately 30% heavier than the active foaming LW PLA I buy planes from Eclipson, and use their provided PLA gcodes without any mods, and the prints is great . Hi everyone i am begginer and was trying already a lot different settings but in each one there were some problems, I was wondering if someone has good silk pla settings for anycubic i3 mega s I will be very greatful thank you🙃 When I ordered the printer I also added a double pack of the Rapid PLA, and it was cheaper than the PLA I used on my Ender 3, so I always order an amount that gives me free shipping. Beware! A bunch of hacks with terrible prints will disagree with me! Printing Mika3D Silk Copper PLA at 210C/60C. With PETG stock settings as well and zero issues. 4 and my mom says she’ll order me a 0. I personally avoid silk pla since I am not fan of the details they offer But I came across PolyTerra and they seem to have a huge selection of PLA filaments and since I have never used them and I am the person who takes any information regarding reviews with a grain of salt, I wanted to know your honest opinion on the matter. Oh and also making sure to dry the filament before doing anything is very important, even if it is brand new and vacuum packed. Best temperature will of course depend on your machine and settings so prudent to test on your individual setup to establish the optimum for you. 031 Planning on switching out after I run out of Anycubic PLA on my Chiron. INFO: Printer: AnyCubic Kobra Max Slicer: Cura Fill/Mat: DO3D Shiny Silk PLA Temps: N: 218° B: 60° Print Speed: 60mm/s Jan 19, 2023 · Moving forward, we will dive deeper into the process of configuring print settings for silk PLA, find out how to create specific configurations for silk PLA in popular slicers such as Cura and PrusaSlicer, and finally, take a quick look at the optimal silk PLA settings for the Ender 3. r/anycubickobra: For your Anycubic Kobra needs. I print Eryone Silk at 220C-225C. Slow down outer wall speed, I have it at 150mm/s. There is no fixed temp. Eryone - Silk, Metallic, Matte, Glitter - Yes eSun - Silk, Matte, PLA+ - Yes - increased the temp on the generic PLA profile by 5-10 for the matte BambuLab - Matte, Basic, PC, ABS, Support W - Yes Amolen - Wood, Silk - Yes MatterHackers - PETG - Yes TTYT3d - Silk - Yes DO3d - Silk - Yes CC3d - Silk - Yes Bblife - Silk - Yes /r/photography is a place to politely discuss the tools, technique and culture of photography. The settings you see in the menu photo are the defaults and I would recommend you just leave them alone. My print bed is bad right now and I am waiting for the replacement from Anycubic. I am looking for some baseline Temp settings for the Nozzle and Textured PEI Plate. By manually calibrating my eSUN pla silk I could save a profile for that particular brand. Pretty well left all other settings default, including print speed. fqrkpz sfjov qgse uusiab exgtpl snidi uukl wmbrg fognxv czuzqbs