Climbing nuts vs hexes.

• Climbing nuts vs hexes A typical trad rack will contain 10-12 nuts and maybe one or two mid-size hexes. e. But no crack is truly parrallel so you should find a spot to place a bomber hex somewhere on the route. They are also lighter than the equivalent sized cam. I have used LAs and peckers before but that's only when the cracks get very small and the climbing gets hard. The total weight for three hexes covering . Initially made from actual machine nuts with the internal thread drilled out, they have undergone several stages of development in the last few decades, resulting in the wonderful colour-coded super-strong designs we ha A solid nut placement in a crack is bomber enough to take a big fall from a lead climber. Think of micro-nuts as a last resort—you need a piece of gear and the only option is the tiniest crack where only a micro-nut fits. They do also work in irregular/chossy/slimy cracks. Therefore we've been thinking on buying maybe one big Hex or blue DMM's torque nut just in case we might need something so big for the route. If your nut isn’t quite perfect, try placing it in a different orientation. I rarely use the hexes, occasionally use the tricams, often use the nuts, and same for my new cams. Jun 21, 2022 · It's because hexes are best thought of (and most often used as) giant nuts (which can be used as cams in some situations), whereas tricams are best thought of as cams and used as such. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin A large selection of nuts for a long trad route in Morrocco N uts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. In Kouba, we understand specific needs of every climber, that's, why we offer ten different shapes of nuts and three different types of cams. if the rock type is suited to offsets have a set of theirs also. Oct 17, 2024 · I have used the BD wired hexes, DMM Torque nuts and WC Hexcentrics. Climbing nuts are generally non-symmetrical, being wider at one side and also curved. Double up 2-7. Use the side of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can the opposite way it went in. Passive camming. Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. All nut tools serve the same basic purpose: removing nuts from rocks. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Sep 28, 2010 · Saved Content. But like all that shiny climbing gear, they are a tool that have their limitations. I love my torque nuts, but in the end it's best if you're familiar with as many types of gear as possible, so collect a variety (Including hexes which many people won't/don't know how to A set of nuts: 10 – 13 nuts in the common sizes ; A nut tool: For getting stuck nuts out of cracks ; Draws: At least 10-12, made up of quickdraws or a combination of slings/runners or webbing, and carabiners ; Extra carabiners: Especially locking ones for building anchors ; A gear sling: To carry all your gear May 1, 2022 · Cams, nuts, tricams, hexes, stoppers, ball nuts, and tube chocks are all categories of gear that climbers wedge securely into cracks and pockets. A downside to passive protection is that it is more likely to pop out with rope drag. Sale price $29. yosemite) then they are nice i think. Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome[1]. However, there are many design differences between models and brands. Also have a few micros of offsets & stopper/rock/nuts. Hex nuts can be placed in three different orientations when turned on their axis, thanks to their tapered, asymmetric side faces, allowing a versatile use in a multitude of cracks. Other passive pro includes tri-cams, Hexentrics ® (hexes) and tube chocks. Nov 8, 2008 · Large homemade nuts had been around in the UK for many years, made from both large machine nuts, wooden blocks and even pipe, and in most articles about the history of the big nut it’s usually Tom Frost who’s given the honour of designing the first proper alloy hex, with the Chouinard Hexentric which appeared in 1971. They are certainly another tool in the chest for trad climbing. Let us know what else you want to see!6kN Nut Tests: Since moving back to NC, we used them rarely and when we do its usually one of the smaller sizes. Also by carefully calculating the relative side angles the expansion range is increased. Most of the force is transferred in the direction it is being pulled (in most cases, down and slightly . . Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. Shop for climbing hexes at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. Aug 31, 2016 · Saved Content. DMM Wales are the only manufacturer of rock climbing and industrial access gear based in the UK -- I make videos for them to show off the features and great ROCK CLIMBING PROTECTION. They come in different sizes and shapes to accommodate a variety of features. Up until about a month ago I had to borrow other people's gear if I wanted to use cams. Sale price $49. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. Mar 1, 2016 · I'm new to outdoor climbing and am trying to build a solid rack for all sort of top rope anchors. Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! https://www. BD hexcentrics are a lot of the reason people hate hexes. Costa Blanca Climbing Holiday; Picos De Europa Climbing Holiday; Madrid Area Climbing Holiday Wired Hexentric Saved Content. Jul 10, 2024 · Trad climbing either requires climbing shoes or approach shoes (Image credit: Jessie Leong) Rope – For trad climbing, you should be looking for at least 50 meters in order to access the majority of single pitch routes. Obviously this resulted in carrying more equipment so was heartily encouraged by gear manufacturers. Standard Lead Belay techniques are used in both sport and trad. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the Mar 15, 2017 · In reply to benmason: In the states you often see climbers carrying mainly cams and only a few nuts, maybe a maximum of 10. Secure your ascent with our top-quality nuts and hexes at Campcraft! Essential for traditional climbing, these passive protection devices are designed to fit a variety of cracks and fissures, providing reliable and versatile anchoring solutions for climbers of all skill levels. As nouns the difference between hex and charm is that hex is an evil spell or curse or hex can be (computing|informal) or hex can be a hexagonal space on a game board while charm is an object, act or words believed to have magic power or charm can be the mixed sound of many voices, especially of birds or children. It’s a world that has two categories: active and passive climbing protection devices. Fair enough in a horizontal break, then it's cams or tricams, otherwise its always a whacking great hex or a nice snug nut that makes me feel safe. climbinganchors. Jan 8, 2024 · Write for UKC Gear Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos Aug 12, 2004 · Interesting you trust cams more than nuts or hexes, I'm the complete opposite. Private Rock Climbing Guiding; Lead Climbing Coaching – 5 Day; Intro to Rock Climbing – 5 Day; Introduction to Sports Climbing; Improvised Rescue for Rock Climbers; Sea Cliff Climbing; How to Climb a Big Wall; UK Trad Climbing Tour; HOT ROCK . You can turn a Dyneema hex into an ATC when you drop your belay device on a multipitch, can't do that with a Nuts are available in different shapes to help the climber find the best fit for a given crack. The result is a nut that not only looks good but maximises the camming expansion - this is especially noticeable in horizontal placements. Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams. May 29, 2020 · Hexes: Popular before the advent of cams, hexes are essentially hexagonal nuts. I used to have a set of original hexes and the first 3 had wire (very handy for reaching up to slot one in a pin scar) the rest were on perlon. I will not be setting a top rope just off these nuts or hexes but just to incorporate them. Sep 22, 2009 · "What the Torque Nuts achieve is a combination of curves and pivot points which allow the nut to cam correctly. If you already have some cams i'd definately choose 4 Torque nuts over 1 extra cam. ETA: If you do get hexes, get the WC rockcentrics or DMM torque nuts. May 31, 2005 · Following the argument that hexes have a place on an alpine climbers rack I looked at three pieces that would complement as set of nuts. Most easier mixed climbing will be somewhat icy in the cracks so nuts and possibly a few hexes should be the ticket. In other word s, the harder you pull, the tighter it holds. Feb 15, 2025 · I remember my insecurity of going from pins/nuts to just nuts in the early 1970's, but that was a matter of ethics, so I did everything I could to eliminate pins from the rack. just cams more a matter of flexibility. It’s thinner, lighter, and easier to place and clean. My hexes sit at the bottom of my gear closet now and have since the day I doubled my my cams. Check out our great prices and latest deals! DMM Torque Nut Set 1-4 - Extendable Sling Which neither of us own. Double Cap. buymeacoffee. Hexes are large, hollow, hexagonal metal tubes that can be placed in either a passive orientation—simply wedged into a crack like a nut—or in an active orientation, in which case the cable or sling of the hex extends from either its right or left side. Its really amazing what folks buy on ebay! Mar 28, 2021 · Placing Hexeshttps://rockclimb. au or at a Climbing Anchors retail store. From cams to carabiners, nuts to nut tools, there are so many options for trad climbing gear that it’s hard to know where to even begin. Apr 27, 2022 · A wave of articles followed: Robbins’ “Nuts to You” in the Californiabased climbing magazine Summit; Tom Frost’s “Preserving the Cracks” in the 1972 American Alpine Journal; and perhaps most eloquently, Doug Robinson’s “The Whole Natural Art of Protection” in one of clean climbing’s holy scripts, the 1972 Chouinard Equipment Write for UKC Gear Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos An extensive set of nuts, rocks, and hexes is imperative if you’re looking to improve your climbing ability beyond the basics—any pro climber will tell you that. Free Climbing-Sport and Trad are both forms of free climbing. Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. On some rock types hexes do work better though (Pembroke limestone) While there are several different types of passive pro, including hexes, chocks, and Tricams, the most common type is the nut, also called a stopper. I think the usefulness of hexes is very dependant on where you climb. Climbing nuts exert very little outwards force on the rock, unlike cams. Their shape means they can be used in multiple orientations, giving you a wide range of placement options with every piece. A range of 'Nuts and Hexes Climbing Equipment' from The Climbers Shop and Joe Brown Shops Feb 16, 2023 · Kouba Hex nuts come in sets of 6, ranging from 13 mm all the way to 44. 94"-2. Nuts & Hexes; Nuts & Hexes. Lots of knotted slings and loose biners Saved Content. Find it difficult to justify standing still for ages trying to fiddle in nuts or hex's when a cam can be placed in seconds. resling your cams, chocks, nuts & hooks! Our Resling Service can replace your aged and worn slings with new or 15 mm Nylon Climb Spec webbing or 12 mm Dyneema Ultratape™ - giving them renewed "life". cb294:. The most popular gear for protecting trad climbs these days are camming devices. In the 1970s, our original Stoppers helped lead the shift toward clean climbing. Nov 14, 2019 · Both involve Lead Climbing-where a “leader” places protection as they climb, while risking a lead fall. The Torque nut pos a bit more versatile but you would be carrying one more Hexes to cover the same range and once you've used it, it's gone. (To think that in 1968 we had just 6 nuts - seemed a lot then! - all on perlon, pre-wires, and about four line and tape slings Aug 29, 2016 · Friends and nuts (as all climbing equipment) have a lifespan of 10 years according to all manufacturers, but I believe the expiration dates of some pieces are longer than our own lives. I carry 3 or so hexes on any unknown trad line where they look appropriate. (Nuts are the foundation on which UK trad climbing is built). We will never share the personal, private information (including but not limited to your name, address, phone, or email) that you provide through www. You'll find in the UK, most climbers skip the cams for their first rack and will opt for hexes instead as they are cheaper and work very similarly to nuts. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. Nuts appear to be rated based on the wire attached to them. On the rare occasion doing something funky with hexes or nuts in opposition might be useful, but most of the time it is better simply to use the right tool for the job. Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. For the comparison I looked at BD C4 camalots versus BD wired hexendrics. Easy to rack and place in bottlenecks, Hexes come equipped with durable, galvanized steel cables. How to Choose Climbing Nuts, Stoppers and Chocks. Oct 7, 2004 · Hex's on wire vs on slings. Tricams have a reputation for being fiddly and slow to place, thus people buy cams instead. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Jul 3, 2010 · Hexes don't walk, the force is spread over a much larger area and NOTHING is more reassuring than a large hex where it can only fail if large lumps of rock fail. Except it still retains the original ground-breaking geometry that separated the Rock from all other nuts. I have a friend who climbs in JTree a lot, and he swears to them so presumably there is a geological feature there that eats them as well. Some climbers prefer cams instead of hexes as they are usually more versatile, if more expensive and slightly less reassuring. Nuts with an offset taper are also useful in flaring cracks or old piton scars. I will be picking up one to fill the gap between by DMM's and sets of nuts. I'm builidng my rack and going for a load of hexes. Sep 23, 2009 · The trend over the last few years has been to place cams when a hex would be better and wear the rock away. Climbers only ascend by the use of their body, and do not use climbing gear to help them up the rock. Protection refers to nuts, cams, hexes, stoppers, and so on. Easily compare different types of climbing gear! Including cams, nuts, hexes, and more! Compare different climbing nuts. This protection, also called pro, is placed in cracks and fissures as you climb up, and then removed, or cleaned, when you’re done, so all you leave on the rock is a few chalk marks. Climbing Nuts and Hexes. The rest of the nuts will slide to the bottom of the carabiner as you're inserting the piece. So cam's would get my vote in a parrallel crack. They eventually became ‘hex centric’ in that each side was of a different length. For everyday cragging, you won't miss them. Place the nut with the cable facing in the direction of pull if you were to take a fall, which is generally down and slightly out. Of course this is mainly just snobbery as hexes remain useful in certain conditions even for a climber with a full set of cams. Choose whichever fits best in the placement! Nuts are your bread and butter, with a few hexes for larger sizes. Sep 22, 2009 · As a result hexes have become forever connected to a class of climbers ranging from bumbly beginners up to VS punters and hence, are a bit uncool. What do you guys suggest nuts or hexes which brands and what sizes are most commonly used so I know where to start buying equipment. Sep 15, 2014 · CGR gives the Kouba Climbing Nut Sets a full test to see if value means performance. Aug 8, 2022 · There are much smaller nuts, like RPs, and much larger ones, like hexes (see page 28 for more info on specialized passive pro). In stock. Nov 24, 2004 · Title Says it all. Good for bail gear or aid possibly, but I don't ever carry them even for that, anymore. Nov 22, 2021 · What is a climbing nut tool used for? Anatomy of a Rock Climbing Nut Tool. Equip yourself with top gear from Black Diamond and DMM. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. Mar 1, 2012 · As sods law states the first time I ditch the hexes that I'll be faced with a wide crack 3 pitches up how good are stacked nuts? I've placed a few but never bothered actually falling off to test them and they've generally been large older style nuts in handy constrictions so were probably pretty bombproof. They are made of a flexible wire which is threaded through a hard 'nut' of metal. The disadvantage of slung hexes vs stiff things like wired nuts or cams is that they are difficult to set at arm's length. 1 Full set of slung hexes up to #9 or #10. Jan 21, 2022 · Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. Cams are quicker to place – great if you’re getting pumped and need to place gear quickly. Personally I don't carry hexes - never got on with them and they just serve to make me sound like an alpine cow; they just sit there till I get to the top so might as well not bother. They offer some camming ability in parallel cracks. I'm still pretty new at trad climbing and I was a hex sceptic until the other day - I went climbing somewhere different to my usual haunt - a rather exposed cliff where the erosion had scooped out the most marvellous hex placements - absolutely bomber! May 4, 2020 · Climbing Anchors Ltd (“Climbing Anchors”, “we”, “us”, “our”) is committed to protecting your privacy. Tricams : A polarizing piece of gear, tricams are small pieces of metal that can cam against the walls of cracks. I've got a mixed rack for my low grade climbing which suits me: a set of wires, couple of friends and five larger hexes on rope. The buck stops with parallel CLIMBING NUTS, CAMS AND HEXES. Their weights are comparable, but their dimensions are a bit different, and I was wondering if folks found that made a difference in how versatile they were, or in how easily they place or hold a fall. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit different cracks and offer versatile protection. Pull the nut down into the constriction, paying attention to the surface contact between the nut and the rock. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Apr 13, 2025 · How much does a full rack of climbing nuts cost? A full rack of climbing nuts will cost around $120. Similar to nuts, Figure 15 shows that hexes have much better weight efficiency than SLCDs as well. 95. I climb with Hexes because when I started leading, we used to borrow a mates rack and that is all he used. Same thing when I did own the Torque Nuts before I sold them in favor of the Rockcentrics. Moved Permanently. Have also used hexes a belay stations to save cams and used hexes to bail off routes in emergency. Setting Oct 18, 2024 · I have used the BD wired hexes, DMM Torque nuts and WC Hexcentrics. Oct 1, 2001 · The Wild Country Rock is the original nut for trad climbing with a few tweaks to accommodate the modern climber. 6. This means they can be placed in four possible orientations. Nuts=Stoppers Have a full set. Read Time - 9 minutes. Hexes are just a footnote in climbing history for practical applications these days. Oct 28, 2016 · Trad climbing requires a large and somewhat complex set of gear that’s used instead of bolts to stop a fall. Offset cams are nice for flaring pin scars-- if you climb places where this is common (e. Active pro refers mainly to cams, unless you are climbing a wide crack (called an offwidth), which might require the active pro known as a Big Bro. It's hard to beat a textbook hex placement, and they do not walk into a crack like a cam. Mar 18, 2009 · The old age question we been asking since the start!!. Also there has been talk about buying whole DMM torque set (4 pieces) to supplement our cams for belays, and save cams for hard climbing. Jun 11, 2012 · I grew up trad climbing in Australia in the 90s where bolts were something only occasionally seen as a rap anchor and the standard rack looked like this: 2-3 sets of nuts. Sep 14, 2007 · Prefer Nuts when the placement is good and quick. Most nut tools feature a large striking surface on the back, which can be hit repeatedly with the palm of your hand to free stuck nuts. . com. com/en-GB/stores/ Nov 12, 2019 · As an emergency extender the dyneema works better (basically the previous point) if extending a nut. Oct 3, 2007 · What are the pros/cons of slung hexes vs. 5 mm in terms of possible crack sizes in which to wedge them. People learn with nuts, thus hexes get bought as giant nuts. com/jbmountainOr buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! https://teespring. Free shipping on orders over $69! La Cordée, your local outdoor specialist. Then it can be removed by hand. the size 1-4 Torques are pretty much similar to the wild country rocks 11-14, so they are great for the bigger sizes. Going back to your point on cams not being necessary below VS. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. No Most commonly, a carabiner will be used to join the hex to the climbing rope by means of a loop of webbing, cord or a cable which is part of the hex. Also hexes work much better when you are Scottish winter climbing. Shop our climbing jammers and unbolts. Aug 1, 2010 · In reply to Roger Irrelevant: i have a full set of nuts (1-10) and then went a bought the torque nuts. There are usually more options for placing cams than nuts, so it’s better to place nuts when you can and save the cams for later. Curved nuts have a concave face on one side and a convex face on the other. Depends where you'll be climbing. Rock climbing protection has always been a core part of what we design and build. Nov 3, 2011 · Camming a hex in a vertical crack takes practice and time. Learn how to use nuts and hexes. Aside from the extendable sling, the shape is awesome and they are well sized. WC every day for me. Usually one or two hits and it rattles loose. Saved Content. The Rockcentrics do come in more sizes, but mostly on the smaller end of the scale. The document has moved here. I didn't mean to say the hex would not cam at all, just that the camming didn't enter into my thinking when placing a hex in a constricting crack and the placement only relied on wedging a lump of metal into a constriction in an orientation that couldn't pull through (without the rock breaking) even without any camming action. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. The typical bolts used for protecting sport routes are around 3 – 5 inches (7 – 12 cm) in length and have an expansion sleeve that locks them into the hole when tightened down. Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. They aren’t quite as strong as standard nuts, but they’re certainly strong enough to hold some if not most climbing falls. They are cheap, light and durable. *hex for me must be curvy (eg wc rockcentric, camp carvex or dmm torque nut) PS when stressed at work I used a relaxing meditation of placing my second largest hex whilst leading! Jul 3, 2010 · Write for UKC Gear Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos Jun 23, 2022 · In reply to. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. “Passive pro” is a subcategory that includes climbing nuts or stoppers, hexes, and Tricams—basically anything designed to catch you by wedging itself in place in the event of a fall. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Nuts and hexes all have a curved side, this is for camming them in, a fall will cam them in harder. 5" (#5,#7,#9) is a hair over 9oz. You can hammer them into icy cracks. Nut and Hexes Ranging in size from the thickness of a matchstick to the size of your clenched fist, nuts (also called chocks, wires or stoppers) and hexes are inexpensive pieces of trad protection. A handful of cams in the bigger sizes (BD #1-3) wouldn't be the worst idea though. Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos May 6, 2008 · I'd say skip the hexes altogether and use the money to buy doubles of cams. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Hexes were an extension of the machine nuts that climbing started using for protection. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. video-----Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is designed to include Active Protection consists of Spring-Loaded Camming Devices (cams), active Tri-Cam placements, active hex nut placements, and sliding ball-nuts. Apr 23, 2022 · Nuts, Hexes and Tricams for Rock Climbinghttps://rockclimb. However, they do have advantages over cams in certain situations. I also instruct my second how to easily remove them. Lightweight aluminium alloy construction means that despite their low weight, each Torque Nut has a 14kN strength rating. Torque Nuts can be used to protect parallel sided cracks. Honestly, I appreciate the history of passive protection, and would like to stay passive. It is always best to extend nut or hex placements with a quickdraw or an extended alpine draw, according to the anticipated direction of the climb. Anything bigger than a size 11 nut just flops if you try and place it with the wire yet are just rigid enough to be more annoying on your harness. As ascensions become steeper and higher, it will be necessary to provide yourself with extra protection by wedging nuts into the cracks in the rock, therefore affording more What Is Passive Climbing Protection? Climbing protection, or “pro” for short, is any kind of removable gear that you slot into the rock to catch a fall. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Climbing nuts, climbing hexes, and nut tools to complete your trad rack Staples in any trad climber’s kit, climbing nuts and climbing hexes are designed to be wedged into the cracks of a rock wall to offer fall protection without leaving any major scarring behind. Dec 25, 2016 · I have about 60 nuts and hexes going up to Camalot #3, but no cams. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. May 2020. You can get a set of torque nuts for 43 quid with free post <campfour> 28 quid difference yes but ebay those old hexes and you'll make up that difference. video-----Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the pro Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. Now I've got a pretty well rounded rack. Hexes are a type of nut, a hollow eccentric hexagonal prism with tapered ends, usually threaded with webbing, a swaged cable, or a cord. Oct 31, 2024 · The Best Nuts and Stoppers. Jan 22, 2010 · When I first started trad climbing all I could afford were nuts, hexes, and tricams. The reason behind this was that someone trying to make their own at home wasn’t very accurate as cutting and made it by accident as realised that the eccentric shape work Nuts are much lighter and cheaper so it’s easy to carry a lot of them. Just smack the side of the nut tool repeatedly against the hex the opposite way it was set until you jar it loose. " Mar 3, 2012 · I like the old school slung hexes because I can girth hitch slings to them and eliminate a carabiner while placing them in really deep cracks. Getting into leading trad routes? Learn how to choose types of passive protection, such as chocks, nuts and hexes. 3-6 cams. Climbing nuts, also known as chocks or stoppers, are passive protection devices that wedge into cracks to secure the climber's rope. Nuts Buying Guide. Compare their sizes on nut comparison charts. TN 1=Rockcentric 5+6, TN 2=Rock 6 We busted some climbing nuts at slacksnap. They do though admittedly have a less superior sling setup than DMM Torque Nuts, but at least they are slung which is important to not having them rattle loose from rope movement like the wired hexes Oct 25, 2022 · Sport climbing is the most popular form of outdoor roped climbing and is also practiced indoors in climbing gyms all over the world. Each employs a noticeably different wedge-end shape than you find on a typical nut. Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. Choose options Quick view. g. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. Because nuts cost much less than cams, it’s common to double up on the small sizes of the standard nut range for gear-intensive routes. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. Larger nuts can be placed in either of two aspects (hexes in three aspects) to suit different-width cracks, with either the main faces or the sides in contact with the rock. For unknown long climbs . ive used both torque nuts and rockcentrics and the torques overlap 2 rockcentric sizes i. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Mar 30, 2005 · It is personal preference. One of the best value for climbing nuts is the full set of Black Diamond Stoppers, which come in at $119. In contrast, I find the issue of nuts/cams vs. We like to compliment the Black Diamond Stoppers with a set of offset nuts. if you can place a hex = elephant bomb proof! but the weight, take only what you expect to place size 3 & 6 if you have a full set of nuts. Plus, Metolius offers th How to Choose Climbing Nuts, Stoppers and Chocks. Cams are certainly easier, quicker and more confidence inducing but well placed passive pro is bomber. Hexes (or hexcentrics) are larger nuts with an eccentric hexagon shape that will twist and cam into parallel cracks. Generally use whatever I can place fastest, so use cams regularly, unless there is a slot which I can see a nut will just slip into without faffing. Just use the sideways long end of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can from the wire or sling side like your hitting something with a hammer. One fits certain cracks better than the other and vice versa. With a subtly asymmetrical cross-section, flat sides and slight end-wise taper, they offer three different widths when turned on their axes and another when placed end-wise. They are manufactured by several firms, with a range of Jun 21, 2022 · Saved Content. wired hexes? IMO the smaller sizes the wire is better then becomes pointless in the larger sizes. I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). Feb 20, 2021 · Hexes are lighter, cheaper, and scare the bears away. Into my sport climbing but now i want something a little bit more uncertain! TRAD climbing!!!! now i know that a wall nut is just a passive safety device and a CAM is strong like bull!! buy wall nuts or so much cheaper plus you can but them in packs like beer!! Apr 29, 2015 · Camming hexes has like many of the dark arts of passive pro use has largely been made redundant by cams. There’s also the question of how much gear you actually need to get started—a decision that must balance your own financial constraints with the common fear of not having enough gear to make it to the In the climbing world, your choice of passive climbing protection devices matters a lot. Starter nut sets include a few larger micro nut sizes in the assortment. DMM DMM Torque Nut Climbing Hex. This is the case with friends, nuts and hexes: there are no parts that should change a lot in time, and even less if you're climbing in mild environments (away May 17, 2024 · Micro-nuts, as you might expect, are smaller nuts. Hexes clean as quickly as a nut that you need a nut tool to get out, often times quicker. Black Diamond Offset Stoppers will work perfectly as a Sep 5, 2010 · If these are hexes that you want to use on your rack then suppose it'll cost you 10 or 15 quid for the tape/cord. Gear . Today, our climbing protection is still the trusted industry standard – and we’re still just as committed to innovation. Mar 6, 2010 · Comparing the most used Size 4 Torque nut to the Size 9 Hex there really is nothing in it. Performance *** (Hexes ****) Value **** We are always keen to test climbing hardwear here… I set my Rockcentric hexes as hard as I can and they have never rattled loose during a climb. Oct 16, 2020 · I agree with Garry. All your essential rock climbing nuts, hexes, nut removers, and accessories for your rock climbing kit bag. No reviews. The extendable slings on DMM ones are well annoying and the ones on wire have no benefit. Can anyone tell me how to safely build a trad anchor out of only passive pro? I am assuming that only placing the nuts downward would be awful during a hard catch. Jan 24, 2023 · Trad climbing involves a wide array of gear, including nuts, hexes, cams, Big Bros, and more, to ensure climbers stay safe. First off is the rock secure than then you need to look at how well the device sits in the shape of crack. Ok, I guess I could have been clearer. Dyneema comes in pretty colours! (aside from aesthetics, it's actually useful for grabbing the one you are looking for first time). So, similar to nuts, hexes are a nice replacement for SLCDs on climbs where weight is important and one can expect to make pro placements from easier stances or have more options for placements. The judgement we need to select a placements for Hexes and Tri cams is very similar to selecting a nut placement. We all what happens when you have a badly placed cam. This type of gear is active because as force is applied to the device, it applies more force to the rock, creating more friction. DMM DMM Wallnut Trad Climbing Nut - 10. The main advantage of hexes is they will work in dirty, wet or icy cracks where cams are likely to slide out. A lot of this is due to the fact that many climbers can't place protection properly and are climbing so near to their limit if they placed a hex or another nut they may well be in trouble. Classic, simple, lightweight, functional pro, Black Diamond Hexes shine in rapidly widening cracks where cams might walk out. Belay device – Either a manual breaking device or an assisted braking device that the rope is fed through the create friction Sep 20, 2010 · I have a set of DMM torque nuts that are unquestionably the best hexes on the market. Jan 8, 2024 · Write for UKH . Smaller sizes (micro-nuts) are usually made from a brass or bronze alloy, silver-soldered directly onto the cable. zwd xgzy iykc vsjbxcu rflzrfm ftekys hyxiaf ffuhho tpofc feol wtk eqhlka wezk ifaq zmfv